For the cost, IPD's urethane sets are well worth it, especially considering the rubber trailing arm axle mount bushings and panhard rod bushings tend to fall apart very quickly.

Will it make the suspension rock hard though? I couldn't give a **** less about handling tbh

Not hard per se, but very tight. Common complaints are creaks and vibration transference, not heavy shocks.

A'ight thanks
I'll probably get the polys then. Let's just hope the shop I'm taking it to doesn't completely **** it up and install them incorrectly

Can't deal with all the upload notes, man.

you can turn them off in settings

Around an hour in labor, maybe a hair more or less. Most of the cost on a ticket like that would be parts cost on the tensioner.

Yeah they got me for about 317 with labor, parts and an oil change.

Savage Stevens 320 "security" model, meaning it has a full set of sights and a pistol grip on the stock. It's alright for a cheap plinker, but some have QC issues with the front sight being off-center, and the action bars separating from the foregrip tube. There's also no aftermarket parts available for it, unless you have the patience to modify Remington 870 parts.

yeah I was thinking of getting an 870 type and an SKS for the soviet fade

If you want the 870 platform, you could just get a clone like this one:

www.classicfirearms.com/hawk-12-ga-978-pump-3inch-black-poly?utm_source=Classic+Firearms&utm_campaign=78da33896e-Mailchimp_2015-08-28_Shotgun_80&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_afe48e03d8-78da33896e-238462981

I've never really heard of people having problems with 870 knock-offs, but there's not much that can go wrong with a 12 ga. pump gun in the first place.

Nah I have to buy from Canadian sources

Shotguns have to have a capacity of no more than 3 in a tube.

www.marstar.ca/

My bae says this is a good place for price. Or I'll check the local gun dealer in my city. Then again I still don't know if my mother will the house to be /hasguns/

I'm nowhere near familiar with vehicle pricing or sales. The other people who frequent /cars/ would know worlds more than I do.

thanks fam you the bomb and the .com

Those things are unstoppable monstrosities. As long as your willing to put up with maintaining and hunting down parts for an older vehicle, I'd go for it (as long as it's in good condition, mind. $5000 is a hefty sum).

Something along the lines of the huge white wagonmobile someone posted links to on /cars/ about a month ago? I've never even seen one, let alone performed repairs. With most big GM sedans like that, though, what you see is what you get. Early 2000's and late 90's domestics barely had issues with the internal construction, so as long as you give everything a good check over visually (especially for rust) and test drive it to make sure it's kosher, you're pretty much guaranteed to have a decent car on your hands.

And any issues that may pop up on the LT1 are very well documented by now. You'd be hard pressed to NOT be able to find information on any given repair or diagnosis.

i think i posted that lol
never was able to meet up with the guy and then i tried to contract him again but it was gone
i guess the only issues i heard of with the lt1 is the whole optispark stuff, just seein if you had any further insight on them in your expierence
thanks

Depends on the vehicle.

Any time you turbocharge an engine, the main concern is the strength of the engine's internals. Piston heads have to be a good solid material (typically forged steel with rings to match), the cylinder head gasket and fasteners have to be up to snuff (All-steel cylinder head gasket, high strength studs or bolts), and the valve train has to be adapted for higher pressures and temperatures (sodium filled exhaust valves, high tension return springs, and maybe even a double spring setup).

After that, the concerns are down to tuning the system to get the desired results without blowing the rotating assembly through the oil pan. As I've never personally dealt with modifying a vehicle, I don't know what kind of challenges the on-board electronic control systems present as far as changing how the vehicle operates in such a drastic way. Talk with a local tuner shop for details regarding both installation in your particular vehicle and what it would entail as far as cost for parts and labor.

That depends. What kind of shape is it in overall? What shape is the bed cover in? Does it have any major issues you''ll have to have repaired?

It looks like the wheel bearings come as one big bolt-in hub arrangement. All you have to do is tear-down and swap the assemblies.

Keep the revs reasonably low when engaging the clutch, apply the clutch smoothly instead of dropping it in gear, push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor when you switch gears, and don't use the clutch pedal as a foot rest. Those are the few simple rules for driving in such a way that your clutch will last.

Other than that, watch for leaks from the transmission case seals and change the fluid at the recommended intervals. Manual transmissions require very little maintenance.

The clutch is like a giant disc made of brake material, pushing the clutch pedal down hinges the clutch disc away from the flywheel and releasing the pedal allows the disc to be reapplied to the flywheel, which is it's normal state of operation.

It just allows the engine and transmission input to be operated seperately, which is necessary for smooth driving with a transmission using fixed gearing. An automatic transmission has a "torque converter" instead of a clutch, which relies on fluid flow pressure to transfer engine power to the trans. input.

As for dropping in gear, it's what people do to start a burn-out, they release the clutch as fast as possible while revving the engine instead of smoothly applying the clutch while using a controlled amount of engine speed to keep everything nice and matched for a clean, pleasant acceleration.

What year?

non specifically
just in general
probably an NA or NB, the only ones in my area that are in my price range
don't really know what engines or model years are most problematic

It's really mostly reliant on age and usage. Miata owners have a nasty tendency of destroying the car through neglect.

They last ages when kept up well, however. If you find one with a good interior and there's no sign of knock or rattle in the engine, it's usually a keeper. Year can be of almost any preference as long as the condition is good.

alright.
i guess i'll shop around a bit
thanks a bunch

No problem. And one last piece of advice: always check the front of the front subframe for road damage and bending. People also tend to bottom them out and bash the frame up, and a bent subframe dooms the car.

Depends on make, model, size, and intended use.

is a 2015 tacoma good

Newer Toyota pick-ups are awful, they're built more for city driving. Go with a mid-to-late 2000's Tacoma and you're set.

i wanna know because i got a 2015 tacoma, prolly cus they're a lot bigger than the older models

whats so bad about the newer toyotas, details

The AWD system isn't nearly as beefy as it used to be. the newer Tacoma's are overall a little on the malnourished side when it comes to build quality.

is there any personal modding i could do to it to make it better?

Honestly, it doesn't happen as often as you think. i get maybe 4 or 5 questions a week from people who need my help, maybe a handful more if they want some follow-up questions answered.

And as for my favorite kind of work, I've always been known as a heavy-line repair kind of guy. Pulling engines and transmissions and doing major assembly repair has always been a favorite. Besides that, my best personal specializations include Mazda brand products, BMW major assembly repair (mostly due to chronic oil leak issues), and suspension and driveability diagnosis.

Money makers buddy all day haha keep it up man! Pm me if you got cool **** or Vw stuff!

Plz no.