probably spoke too soon about the videos, but I'd certainly appreciate the rips.

Also, what job?

sure, daft williams sounds awesome!

Just a part-time job dicin' up fruit.

probably spoke too soon about the videos, but I'd certainly appreciate the rips.

Today has been on for 18 minutes, yesterday was all good, took my classic out and turned some heads, school was meh.

TODAY, Daft Punk's new album comes out in Europe, and the vinyl might even ship today.

A cd will come next week too, want rips?

I'm going to bed now though, have a mood fitting funny, and have a nice day. Laters man, love you!

youtu.be/BsQHpS4_iAs

he could be in serious trouble. he is somewhat suicidal i think.

well I got this much out of him

what does he mean by if only?

he probably doesn't feel anyone actually sincerely cares about him

I do... Why did he isolate himself? why did he have himself become forgotten?

It's kind of a long story and I won't divulge too many specific details but he was being constantly harassed by a user on the friendly thread. He talked to a mod about it, but the mod wouldn't do anything and he was later banned by another for "harassing" the said aforementioned mod.
As it turned out the mod who banned him really didn't like him and banned him for the wrong intentions. Kinda why I don't browse friendly anymore.
I think he feels the community has utterly betrayed him even after all the good work he's contributed.

Out of privacy's sake, I'll mention any names.

okay, maybe that was a bit extreme to say.

remsa.man told me about this. I would like to know. i don't feel after betraying a user as important as mali and having him feel like this, they don't deserve privacy.

derp, meant to say "I'll not mention any names"

He gets on his deviant art. Granted he hardly talks to anyone, but he's still alive

Googl pls...

Makes great changes to google music, doesn't even think of making it global.

The only reason why I'd change spotify to it is the android hooked'ness (though even I'm not really sure if that's good anymore, at least they informed that it'd work on other platforms too soon) and that you could have your own files in the mix.

How are you doing todaysies?

probably because they can't get record companies to not be dicks with international copyright distribution policies.

Did a lot of cleaning today, applied for a job, nothing much else.
How about you?

Also, what job?

sure, daft williams sounds awesome!

Just a part-time job dicin' up fruit.

probably spoke too soon about the videos, but I'd certainly appreciate the rips.

Today has been on for 18 minutes, yesterday was all good, took my classic out and turned some heads, school was meh.

TODAY, Daft Punk's new album comes out in Europe, and the vinyl might even ship today.

A cd will come next week too, want rips?

I'm going to bed now though, have a mood fitting funny, and have a nice day. Laters man, love you!

youtu.be/BsQHpS4_iAs

Keep trying to make contact with him however you can. text, skype, anything. He contributed a lot to the old boards.

I tried contacting him on da, but he's yet to reply. I don't wanna bug him through steam since he just cleared his friend list.

he could be in serious trouble. he is somewhat suicidal i think.

well I got this much out of him

what does he mean by if only?

he probably doesn't feel anyone actually sincerely cares about him

I do... Why did he isolate himself? why did he have himself become forgotten?

It's kind of a long story and I won't divulge too many specific details but he was being constantly harassed by a user on the friendly thread. He talked to a mod about it, but the mod wouldn't do anything and he was later banned by another for "harassing" the said aforementioned mod.
As it turned out the mod who banned him really didn't like him and banned him for the wrong intentions. Kinda why I don't browse friendly anymore.
I think he feels the community has utterly betrayed him even after all the good work he's contributed.

Out of privacy's sake, I'll mention any names.

okay, maybe that was a bit extreme to say.

remsa.man told me about this. I would like to know. i don't feel after betraying a user as important as mali and having him feel like this, they don't deserve privacy.

derp, meant to say "I'll not mention any names"

He gets on his deviant art. Granted he hardly talks to anyone, but he's still alive

I can has the wallpaper?

Is it on da?

2lazy2check

intel-qube.deviantart.com/art/Hybrid-369346321
2.5k high-res goodness

Googl pls...

Makes great changes to google music, doesn't even think of making it global.

The only reason why I'd change spotify to it is the android hooked'ness (though even I'm not really sure if that's good anymore, at least they informed that it'd work on other platforms too soon) and that you could have your own files in the mix.

How are you doing todaysies?

probably because they can't get record companies to not be dicks with international copyright distribution policies.

Did a lot of cleaning today, applied for a job, nothing much else.
How about you?

Also, what job?

sure, daft williams sounds awesome!

Just a part-time job dicin' up fruit.

probably spoke too soon about the videos, but I'd certainly appreciate the rips.

Today has been on for 18 minutes, yesterday was all good, took my classic out and turned some heads, school was meh.

TODAY, Daft Punk's new album comes out in Europe, and the vinyl might even ship today.

A cd will come next week too, want rips?

I'm going to bed now though, have a mood fitting funny, and have a nice day. Laters man, love you!

youtu.be/BsQHpS4_iAs

Pics or it didn't happen

I can has the wallpaper?

Is it on da?

2lazy2check

intel-qube.deviantart.com/art/Hybrid-369346321
2.5k high-res goodness

Googl pls...

Makes great changes to google music, doesn't even think of making it global.

The only reason why I'd change spotify to it is the android hooked'ness (though even I'm not really sure if that's good anymore, at least they informed that it'd work on other platforms too soon) and that you could have your own files in the mix.

How are you doing todaysies?

probably because they can't get record companies to not be dicks with international copyright distribution policies.

Did a lot of cleaning today, applied for a job, nothing much else.
How about you?

Also, what job?

sure, daft williams sounds awesome!

Just a part-time job dicin' up fruit.

probably spoke too soon about the videos, but I'd certainly appreciate the rips.

Today has been on for 18 minutes, yesterday was all good, took my classic out and turned some heads, school was meh.

TODAY, Daft Punk's new album comes out in Europe, and the vinyl might even ship today.

A cd will come next week too, want rips?

I'm going to bed now though, have a mood fitting funny, and have a nice day. Laters man, love you!

youtu.be/BsQHpS4_iAs

Sure it's terrifying, but damn if that thing doesn't look happy.

I've no idea, I think it's a highly magnified pictue of some kind of worm IIRC

No reply is too late.

After reading more, xicon seems to be a consistent brand. Just use 1/4 watt resistors throughout. I use a kit with 1300 ½ watt metal films from China and they are very good - think I paid 50 bucks for them shipped.

Yup, I live in Denmark. The majority of electrical appliances are ungrounded, fed with 50Hz 230V AC - very similar to your 60Hz 115V system when talking about mains hum, shielding and power supplies. 60Hz will generate a little more heat from the diode bridge, but it won't be any issue with this kind of electronics.

Alrighty then. I'll be somewhat busy this week but you've given plenty enough to start working on a mid-level design.

Thank you very much.

Do you mean the ARRL handbook? There is a copy available at my local library which I have had home a couple of times.

There isn't a need to be critical on resistor brands, they all have consistent specs. Pick any 1% tolerance metal film resistor you like; I don't see how there can be reliability issues with something as simple as a resistor. Precise capacitor values aren't needed in 96% of circuit designs, even the high spec ones are within 5% which is excellent.

High temperature tolerance capacitors are fine if they are low ESR, analog electronics aren't rocket science and some miliohms of extra resistance is not even measurable on a PCB where the resistances in a single trace is larger.

So you need to output unbalanced -10 dB signal through RCA plugs, balanced +4 dB (pro level) through XLR's and then a headphone output with it's own volume control? I think you can use the same opamp for balanced and unbalanced, but you'll need a separate one for the headphone output because of different impedance. BTW, use Neutrik RCA's and XLR's, Switchcraft makes the best 6.3mm jack plugs (all my XLR cables and DIY mic preamps use Neutrik while all my guitar- and patchcables are Switchcraft)

For selectable op amps, I'd put four or how many you like to have side by side, sharing the same power supply outlet and analog inputs while a two or four pole selector wires all the opamp outputs so one opamp can be chosen at a time. Think of the layout as a speaker selector in an amplifier. There is no side effects if the switch is in good quality and the chassis is properly shielded. The power supply will be fine if it is inside the same chassis, just have a sheet of mu-metal between the transformer and the DAC electronics to shield against magnetic flux from the core of the transformer. Mu-metals are the best for the job.

The 2234 is still in stock at many suppliers as a DIP package, should be easy enough to get. You can integrate FET switching if you want to eliminate mechanical contacts.

A good quality pot should to the trick if you want variable levels, otherwise a opamp based volume control is good - see picture.

Are you experienced in SMD soldering? You can get small PCB's on eBay which mounts the 0.65mm pin width IC's on a DIP.

Where in the world are you situated? The US?

Sorry for the late reply, had to get stuff moved out my apartment.
Not ARRL, but something similar and bulkier, can't for the life of me remember the title.

1% tolerance resistors are a little more premium; brand consistency is good for reliable support. I've used cheap and not-so-cheap resistors in simple timer circuits. They might perform the same for some amount of time, but after awhile the better resistor(s) had a more consistent performance over its lifetime (home-made turbo game controller). Though, it could've just been one bad resistor, I didn't bother to do any validation.

Oky Doky:
Opamp Array 1 (dedicated volume control):
-10dB unbalanced RCA, Neutrik
+4dB balanced XLR, Neutrik

Opamp Array 2 (dedicated volume control):
1/4" Headphone, Switchcraft

I'm not sure how much of the volume control should be left to the hardware or the software. I intend on using a DSP that is ASIO compliant so I won't half to code my own driver. I neglected to mention that the main input would be USB.
Software control can be finicky while hardware can be reliable but a faulty pot could introduce undesired problems.

Chassis design is up in the air at this point, but I'd like everything to be self-contained. I've even contemplated designing the PCB to the mini-ITX dimensions since there are a slew of well-designed mini-ITX computer cases on the market especially since most are well-grounded (when a regular psu is installed). Also, the ease of disassembly would make maintenance all that much more easier. Modifying one of these case wouldn't be too difficult and the PSU mounting area could be plated with magnetic shielding. Thank you for the insight on Mu-metals.

As far as soldering at all, I'm bloody terrible. But I do know someone who's extremely adept at soldering who'd be willing to help at a moment's notice.

I live in the US, assuming your profile info is accurate, there's probably a far difference in the current, wiring and grounding between our local wall socket types.

No reply is too late.

After reading more, xicon seems to be a consistent brand. Just use 1/4 watt resistors throughout. I use a kit with 1300 ½ watt metal films from China and they are very good - think I paid 50 bucks for them shipped.

Yup, I live in Denmark. The majority of electrical appliances are ungrounded, fed with 50Hz 230V AC - very similar to your 60Hz 115V system when talking about mains hum, shielding and power supplies. 60Hz will generate a little more heat from the diode bridge, but it won't be any issue with this kind of electronics.

Alrighty then. I'll be somewhat busy this week but you've given plenty enough to start working on a mid-level design.

Thank you very much.

For the PCB, I intend on using NI Multisim to design the circuit diagram and simulate it, then use its companion software Ultiboard to design the traceroutes for the board. My uncle's a retired electrical engineer who used to design traceroutes for PCBs back when Macs were still using the PowerPC architecture and would be willing to help.

The hardest part of this whole process would be fabricating the PCB. Most of the DIY options I've seen aren't precise enough for 0,65mm pin width in some of the chips, which means I'd have to go hunting for a local firm that could print off single or dual layer PCBs. Not to mention these DIY methods tend to be very labor intensive and time-consuming if you make a single mistake or have a flaw in the traceroutes. I've seen PCB printing machines go for as low as 1000 USD, which would make for a nice investment on future projects, but is just a wee bit expensive for me right now.

Unfortunately, the OPA-2234 is no longer manufactured in 8-pin dip packages (though still made in soic packages). It's not too much of a big deal, but I'd have to hunt for soic-to-8pdip adapters.
I'm currently using just plain ol' LME49860s in my soundcard. I've also heard good things about the MUSES-8920s, but 20 USD for a single chip is kinda pricey imo.

weird.

Alright, I have the time to write again :P

Resistors: There are many types out there. Carbon composition are the oldest still in use - highly unstable and with inherited high noise floor which only gets worse as they heat up...
The best resistors are metal film, very close to no noise and no drift during heatup.

Capacitors: Use 105 degree (heat rating), low-ESR (resistance). best noise figures and longest life span - at least three decades for the best. Good brands: Rubycon, Philips (their blue series is a classic), Jamicon and Elna.

The power supply - consists of transformer, diode bridge, ripple reducing capacitor and the actual regulating circuit which is simple. The transformer doesn't need to be fancy, just a standard 20-30 volt output one will do. The Diode bridge can be bought in a complete package; AC in, rectified AC out. The waveform needs to be constant DC to power the DAC. A capacitor is needed - should be around 10,000 uF with a 63 volt rating or higher (to be safe). Higher capacities reduce the mains hum, but you'll smoke the diodes if the value is too high - let's just say that the theoretical maximum is around 17,000 uF.

Then the actual regulator circuit. What kind of preamp would you like to have in the output stage? A single positive supply rail can be carried with a simple 7800-series regulator. An 7805 for 5 volts in the digital IC's and an 7815/18 for 15-18 volts on the analog IC's. Split-supply can be managed with a 7900-series regulator which can do negative voltage for the more complicated ourput IC's.

I have the diagram to a little more complicated PSU which can set the voltage even higher if you have the need - it has a feedback system using a transistor.

How would you like to design the PCB? You can do it on Veroboard, but prepare to have a little crosstalk and a hard time faultfinding the build... Do you know any people who etches PCB's? I can etch one for you if you, but I don't have the tooling to do complicated microtraces as seen from small surface mounted chips.

I also can make a diagram for the output stage if you like. Specify how much amplification is needed and I'll calculate the values for ya. You seem to go for best performance, so I would recommend the OPA2234 opamp as it's a Burr Brown audiophile version of the very good TL072.

Any questions? Just find me on facebook where I'm easier to get in touch with. Facebook.com/sorenhammer

Fuck... Wrote a whole post and my browser crashed. Do you have skype, we can have a conversation instead. My name is soren.hammer1 - am available tonight.

Well that's a lot to take in.
Fuck, I used to have a huge book on ameteur radio which would've contained all sorts of good information on this subject.

I was going to get in contact with an acquaintance, an electrical engineer, who works at Lockheed Martin for his recommendation on brands of capacitors and resistors considering there's much less tolerance for low reliability and stability in the aerospace industry.
That said, I know high heat capacitors can run a little inefficiently at room temperature than the temperature they're designed for; not sure how hot they would be getting in this kind of usage anyway or how much of disparity would actually occur.

As far as the preamp goes, I'm looking to integrate 3 outputs: a pair of balanced RCAs, a pair of XLRs and an amplified 1/4" headphone jack (with the most emphasis on the headphone), not sure if that's helpful enough to go on, pardon my ignorance.
However, one of the cornerstones of this project would be selectable opamp sets. Swappable opamps have been around forever, but I haven't seen anything that will let you readily switch between installed opamps on the fly with a simple knob. Otherwise, it's somewhat of a pain in the ass to remove the cover of the device, replace the opamps, put on the cover, see how they sound with particular equipment / music, rinse and repeat.
Also, would it be possible to integrate a simple pot circuit to tune the output voltage of the preamp making it more suitable for a wider range of compatibility with amps?

The PSU makes me nervous since the transformer would be generating large internal B-fields and I haven't fully figured out how to implement effective magnetic shielding. Aside from that, TI makes decent components for stabilizing DC to be deployed to digital components.

Do you mean the ARRL handbook? There is a copy available at my local library which I have had home a couple of times.

There isn't a need to be critical on resistor brands, they all have consistent specs. Pick any 1% tolerance metal film resistor you like; I don't see how there can be reliability issues with something as simple as a resistor. Precise capacitor values aren't needed in 96% of circuit designs, even the high spec ones are within 5% which is excellent.

High temperature tolerance capacitors are fine if they are low ESR, analog electronics aren't rocket science and some miliohms of extra resistance is not even measurable on a PCB where the resistances in a single trace is larger.

So you need to output unbalanced -10 dB signal through RCA plugs, balanced +4 dB (pro level) through XLR's and then a headphone output with it's own volume control? I think you can use the same opamp for balanced and unbalanced, but you'll need a separate one for the headphone output because of different impedance. BTW, use Neutrik RCA's and XLR's, Switchcraft makes the best 6.3mm jack plugs (all my XLR cables and DIY mic preamps use Neutrik while all my guitar- and patchcables are Switchcraft)

For selectable op amps, I'd put four or how many you like to have side by side, sharing the same power supply outlet and analog inputs while a two or four pole selector wires all the opamp outputs so one opamp can be chosen at a time. Think of the layout as a speaker selector in an amplifier. There is no side effects if the switch is in good quality and the chassis is properly shielded. The power supply will be fine if it is inside the same chassis, just have a sheet of mu-metal between the transformer and the DAC electronics to shield against magnetic flux from the core of the transformer. Mu-metals are the best for the job.

The 2234 is still in stock at many suppliers as a DIP package, should be easy enough to get. You can integrate FET switching if you want to eliminate mechanical contacts.

A good quality pot should to the trick if you want variable levels, otherwise a opamp based volume control is good - see picture.

Are you experienced in SMD soldering? You can get small PCB's on eBay which mounts the 0.65mm pin width IC's on a DIP.

Where in the world are you situated? The US?

Sorry for the late reply, had to get stuff moved out my apartment.
Not ARRL, but something similar and bulkier, can't for the life of me remember the title.

1% tolerance resistors are a little more premium; brand consistency is good for reliable support. I've used cheap and not-so-cheap resistors in simple timer circuits. They might perform the same for some amount of time, but after awhile the better resistor(s) had a more consistent performance over its lifetime (home-made turbo game controller). Though, it could've just been one bad resistor, I didn't bother to do any validation.

Oky Doky:
Opamp Array 1 (dedicated volume control):
-10dB unbalanced RCA, Neutrik
+4dB balanced XLR, Neutrik

Opamp Array 2 (dedicated volume control):
1/4" Headphone, Switchcraft

I'm not sure how much of the volume control should be left to the hardware or the software. I intend on using a DSP that is ASIO compliant so I won't half to code my own driver. I neglected to mention that the main input would be USB.
Software control can be finicky while hardware can be reliable but a faulty pot could introduce undesired problems.

Chassis design is up in the air at this point, but I'd like everything to be self-contained. I've even contemplated designing the PCB to the mini-ITX dimensions since there are a slew of well-designed mini-ITX computer cases on the market especially since most are well-grounded (when a regular psu is installed). Also, the ease of disassembly would make maintenance all that much more easier. Modifying one of these case wouldn't be too difficult and the PSU mounting area could be plated with magnetic shielding. Thank you for the insight on Mu-metals.

As far as soldering at all, I'm bloody terrible. But I do know someone who's extremely adept at soldering who'd be willing to help at a moment's notice.

I live in the US, assuming your profile info is accurate, there's probably a far difference in the current, wiring and grounding between our local wall socket types.

No reply is too late.

After reading more, xicon seems to be a consistent brand. Just use 1/4 watt resistors throughout. I use a kit with 1300 ½ watt metal films from China and they are very good - think I paid 50 bucks for them shipped.

Yup, I live in Denmark. The majority of electrical appliances are ungrounded, fed with 50Hz 230V AC - very similar to your 60Hz 115V system when talking about mains hum, shielding and power supplies. 60Hz will generate a little more heat from the diode bridge, but it won't be any issue with this kind of electronics.

Alrighty then. I'll be somewhat busy this week but you've given plenty enough to start working on a mid-level design.

Thank you very much.

For the PCB, I intend on using NI Multisim to design the circuit diagram and simulate it, then use its companion software Ultiboard to design the traceroutes for the board. My uncle's a retired electrical engineer who used to design traceroutes for PCBs back when Macs were still using the PowerPC architecture and would be willing to help.

The hardest part of this whole process would be fabricating the PCB. Most of the DIY options I've seen aren't precise enough for 0,65mm pin width in some of the chips, which means I'd have to go hunting for a local firm that could print off single or dual layer PCBs. Not to mention these DIY methods tend to be very labor intensive and time-consuming if you make a single mistake or have a flaw in the traceroutes. I've seen PCB printing machines go for as low as 1000 USD, which would make for a nice investment on future projects, but is just a wee bit expensive for me right now.

Unfortunately, the OPA-2234 is no longer manufactured in 8-pin dip packages (though still made in soic packages). It's not too much of a big deal, but I'd have to hunt for soic-to-8pdip adapters.
I'm currently using just plain ol' LME49860s in my soundcard. I've also heard good things about the MUSES-8920s, but 20 USD for a single chip is kinda pricey imo.