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anyone know something similar to this but in a more reputable brand?
www.ebay.com/itm/5-25-Bay-Module-with-USB-Port-LED-Reset-Button-Power-Switch-ECR9400-USB-/191292686504
www.ebay.com/itm/5-25-Bay-Module-with-USB-Port-LED-Reset-Button-Power-Switch-ECR9400-USB-/191292686504
I need a laptop for uni. My Budget is around £500, was hoping smeone could help me out
ASUS Laptop X555UB-NH51
Bot sure where you can find it near you but it has a 6th gen I5 and a 940m and its under your budget
Bot sure where you can find it near you but it has a 6th gen I5 and a 940m and its under your budget
oh yeah for sure, dont expect ultra witcher 3 or anything but itll play practically everything med-low, rocket league easily as well. just look up some 940m benchmarks
my bad i meant a FX-7600P from AMD, then an I5 or greater w/ 940m or greater. both with 8gb or more of ram
preferably an FX-8800P like this one ASUS Laptop A555DG-EHFX
#45205
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meandyamcha (10 hours ago) [-]
Out of boredom i started a project awhile back, starring the AM3 socket. But not AM3+. My goal was to make a computer using the same socket as my first computer that I had purchased. (i had some gifted to me before and this one was my first i had purchased myself)
The original system consisted of an AMD athlon II x3 435, 4GB of RAM, and later down the road i added an HD 6670. I had recently found a refurbished AMD Phenom II x6 1045T, a new asus motherboard since the original system had a dell motherboard, and some new Crucial 4x2GB sticks of RAM. I just tested the parts to ensure they worked (mainly the CPU) and they successfully worked and the system booted.
Only now do i plan for a few more upgrades. I plan to get an R9 380 for the system (don't worry i'm expecting CPU bottlenecks), a new cooler so i can overclock and avoid a stock cooler, a new case and customize it to my personal tastes, and eventually a power supply as well.
Now I know a lot of this is pointless considering the age of the CPU and that eventually none of the original parts will even be there (except the HDD). But i figured staying true to the Era and type of socket would suffice. Yes it is pointless considering my computer im on currently has and I7-5820k, 16GB of DDR4, and a GTX 980ti. But hey it's close to my first computer and it gives me a chance to still mess with some AMD parts.
Feel free to comment on my endeavors to stay true to the AM3 socket. Have you guys ever done anything similar? Do you guys have a pointless scrapyard gaming pc?
The original system consisted of an AMD athlon II x3 435, 4GB of RAM, and later down the road i added an HD 6670. I had recently found a refurbished AMD Phenom II x6 1045T, a new asus motherboard since the original system had a dell motherboard, and some new Crucial 4x2GB sticks of RAM. I just tested the parts to ensure they worked (mainly the CPU) and they successfully worked and the system booted.
Only now do i plan for a few more upgrades. I plan to get an R9 380 for the system (don't worry i'm expecting CPU bottlenecks), a new cooler so i can overclock and avoid a stock cooler, a new case and customize it to my personal tastes, and eventually a power supply as well.
Now I know a lot of this is pointless considering the age of the CPU and that eventually none of the original parts will even be there (except the HDD). But i figured staying true to the Era and type of socket would suffice. Yes it is pointless considering my computer im on currently has and I7-5820k, 16GB of DDR4, and a GTX 980ti. But hey it's close to my first computer and it gives me a chance to still mess with some AMD parts.
Feel free to comment on my endeavors to stay true to the AM3 socket. Have you guys ever done anything similar? Do you guys have a pointless scrapyard gaming pc?
I running chkdsk on my laptop since I kept getting that Watchdog BSOD but now I need some important files off it. I thought I had backups but turns out they must have been on that external that failed. I was wondering if it was possible just to do a force shut down on it or would that still be a bad idea. I know it could mess it up but who knows if they've made shit more friendly since XP, 7. Current OS is Win10
God damnit, I just realized all that shit was backed up on that failed external. All my school work, resumes just gone.
you're using the backup was a second copy, right? your disk still has the originals right
if you're still able to use your comp fine minus watch dogs it's probably a good idea to go out and buy another drive to mirror your disk soon as u can
if you're still able to use your comp fine minus watch dogs it's probably a good idea to go out and buy another drive to mirror your disk soon as u can
I formatted the laptop a few months ago and I just forgot to put them back on. I did find a hard drive though, hopefully it was the one that was in my old school laptop.
Guys, I would really like your opinions on the Oculus Rift, with as little circlejerk as possible. For context, the Rift will be packaged with an Xbox One controller, a media control remote, the motion sensor, and the headset with integrated headphones.
Here's mine :
If it's true that they aren't making close to any money on this release, this is really appreciable.
But, the controller will be a double for a lot of people since you already need a high-end PC (a gamepad is pretty much a must when you have a gaming rig).
Same goes for the headphones, plus the integrated ones look really cheap. This, to me, is a HUGE concern, I think integrating headphones on their VR set is an unforgivable mistake, even if they're good.
And the remote is plain ridiculous. Tested just released an interview of the founder where he says it's only for Play/Pause/Fwd etc.
I wasn't really interested in the Rift at first because I thought it would be released in 2019 or so, and I didn't think I'd have the money to buy it. Now I do, but it's so fucking expensive that I still won't buy it.
And it seems like they're making wome gross mistakes on this release.
Here's mine :
If it's true that they aren't making close to any money on this release, this is really appreciable.
But, the controller will be a double for a lot of people since you already need a high-end PC (a gamepad is pretty much a must when you have a gaming rig).
Same goes for the headphones, plus the integrated ones look really cheap. This, to me, is a HUGE concern, I think integrating headphones on their VR set is an unforgivable mistake, even if they're good.
And the remote is plain ridiculous. Tested just released an interview of the founder where he says it's only for Play/Pause/Fwd etc.
I wasn't really interested in the Rift at first because I thought it would be released in 2019 or so, and I didn't think I'd have the money to buy it. Now I do, but it's so fucking expensive that I still won't buy it.
And it seems like they're making wome gross mistakes on this release.
personally im really worried about how compatible glasses are
i dont want to get contacts just so i can play vr games. im making the assumption that if the headset has ample space to fit glasses in it’s gonna be at least somewhat comfortable
it’s expensive. it’s really expensive, and apparently the vive will be too. i guess some people will find it useful to have a headset and gamepad bundled with it but honestly since theyre aiming at the really high end market that would shell out 600 bucks for a gpu to play vr and 600 dollars for a vr headset i think they missed the mark on target audience by a pretty wide berth. i just wanted to program myself a waifu and be done with human contact, but they give me all this extra stuff.
htc and facebook do actually have the ability to lose quite a lot of money on the whole vr thing so while i do think its valiant of the developers to cut profits to make the headset cheaper, i dont particularly anything but gauging the market on pricing and consumer centric features.
tl;dr i guess its cool but im really gonna go for the vive or something next gen
i dont want to get contacts just so i can play vr games. im making the assumption that if the headset has ample space to fit glasses in it’s gonna be at least somewhat comfortable
it’s expensive. it’s really expensive, and apparently the vive will be too. i guess some people will find it useful to have a headset and gamepad bundled with it but honestly since theyre aiming at the really high end market that would shell out 600 bucks for a gpu to play vr and 600 dollars for a vr headset i think they missed the mark on target audience by a pretty wide berth. i just wanted to program myself a waifu and be done with human contact, but they give me all this extra stuff.
htc and facebook do actually have the ability to lose quite a lot of money on the whole vr thing so while i do think its valiant of the developers to cut profits to make the headset cheaper, i dont particularly anything but gauging the market on pricing and consumer centric features.
tl;dr i guess its cool but im really gonna go for the vive or something next gen
2 expensive 4 me since it already cost as much as my computer, but the xbox one controller sounds like a nice add on since they're pretty pricey to me as it is. The integrated headphones already sound like they'll be shit tho.
Well of course. The first generation of VR won't be cheap. It's definitely going to cost more than the oculus, unless they do some blood magic or sell it at a loss. And the thing with oculus is that you're not even getting the complete package with the base model, in Q2 they're releasing those nun-chuck controllers that vive has at launch. So oculus is just half-assing everything right now just so they could be the first on the market.
#45180
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anon (19 hours ago) [-]
i got a i7-2600 @ 3.4ghz running integrated graphics, 4 gigs of ram a monitor at 1680 x 1050. i wanted to upgrade it just for some light gaming, nothing too fancy, the most i would run is mass effect 3. was thinking about getting a 750 ti and 4 more gigs of ram, would that work fine?
You pretty much have 1:1 setup with a guy i know so at first i thought you were him.
Ram is a problem. Ram can be very picky so it's usually recommended to buy ram sticks that are exactly the same, otherwise there can be problems. So just adding additional 4gb can be risky. It's safer to just buy a brand new 8gb kit.
Ram is a problem. Ram can be very picky so it's usually recommended to buy ram sticks that are exactly the same, otherwise there can be problems. So just adding additional 4gb can be risky. It's safer to just buy a brand new 8gb kit.
as long as you match speeds you can make it work but thats some pretty slow ram mate
not bad for a gpu i paid £55 for www.youtube.com/watch?v=UCF5eeQnMGw
So this board mostly seems to be computer, but I hope there's some people with other types of technology too.
In short, I'm building a fridge.
In long, I'm building a small fridge for my bedroom that's going to use some peltier units to cool a small area, I have an area about 23Hx75Wx43D (in cm) that I could use, which after insulation and the functional section of it, would still be a good size and is a nice place to put it because it's easy to reach, won't get direct sunlight, etc.
Unfortunately, it wouldn't get very good airflow.
The space is enclosed on all sides but the front the front as a gap between it and a sliding door, which is far enough away to mean airflow shouldn't be too bad on that side. .
So a few options I thought of are:
Take some space off the width and install the peltier units & heat sinks along the side, this would give me a nice little corridor of airflow, and I can install some small fans to move air through it.
another option would be to take some space off the height and put fans to blow the air in on one side, across the back, and back to the front on the other.
And the one I think would work best is to take space of both the width and depth so there's a corridor around the whole thing and put a peltier unit on each side with a fan blowing directly into the heatsink.
So my main 2 questions are:
1. Would any of these ideas work? How could I make sure theres enough airflow that the peltiers don't burn out.
2. Any suggestions on how to power this? Connecting it to the mains I'm Australian, if anyones curious about info on the mains wouldn't be a good idea, I know, but I don't really want to have to use a car battery.
In short, I'm building a fridge.
In long, I'm building a small fridge for my bedroom that's going to use some peltier units to cool a small area, I have an area about 23Hx75Wx43D (in cm) that I could use, which after insulation and the functional section of it, would still be a good size and is a nice place to put it because it's easy to reach, won't get direct sunlight, etc.
Unfortunately, it wouldn't get very good airflow.
The space is enclosed on all sides but the front the front as a gap between it and a sliding door, which is far enough away to mean airflow shouldn't be too bad on that side. .
So a few options I thought of are:
Take some space off the width and install the peltier units & heat sinks along the side, this would give me a nice little corridor of airflow, and I can install some small fans to move air through it.
another option would be to take some space off the height and put fans to blow the air in on one side, across the back, and back to the front on the other.
And the one I think would work best is to take space of both the width and depth so there's a corridor around the whole thing and put a peltier unit on each side with a fan blowing directly into the heatsink.
So my main 2 questions are:
1. Would any of these ideas work? How could I make sure theres enough airflow that the peltiers don't burn out.
2. Any suggestions on how to power this? Connecting it to the mains I'm Australian, if anyones curious about info on the mains wouldn't be a good idea, I know, but I don't really want to have to use a car battery.
1. Really can't say, but adding some thermocouples to your system (or anything that can measure temps really) should help you with determining whether you have enough airflow.
2. Figure out what voltage you want to be running at, and get a transformer. If you don't want them running at 100% of their load, then you may want to get a current controller (I believe they're just modified voltage controllers...).
2. Figure out what voltage you want to be running at, and get a transformer. If you don't want them running at 100% of their load, then you may want to get a current controller (I believe they're just modified voltage controllers...).
I suppose I could add a thermocouple and have it turn the peltier units on/off when the intrnal temperature went below/above a certain temperature.
I suppose I could also do the same with one externally and have it turn them off if they get too hot.
2. that doesn't really address my question though.
I suppose I could also do the same with one externally and have it turn them off if they get too hot.
2. that doesn't really address my question though.
I really doubt my skill level is enough to do this safely.
But I'll definitely consider it
But I'll definitely consider it
I just set up my TV as a second monitor, but the screen is too zoomed in so that some of the sides are cut off . Would it mean that the TV is too large?
Glad to learn that it worked.
I'd say the grainy effect is "normal", TVs generally have lower quality panels compared to monitors, but they're not designed for a 2-feet view distance (the average desktop pc setup).
But the performance drop is completely obscure to me the physical size of the screen does not influence the processing power needed in any way
Are you running other screens along with the TV when you're playing ?
I'd say the grainy effect is "normal", TVs generally have lower quality panels compared to monitors, but they're not designed for a 2-feet view distance (the average desktop pc setup).
But the performance drop is completely obscure to me the physical size of the screen does not influence the processing power needed in any way
Are you running other screens along with the TV when you're playing ?
change the settings for the display in display settings
no problemo. just went to r/techsupport so i am really done with rude elitist fucks.
pretty sure the procedure is the same on all versions of windows, you may need to click "Advanced display settings/options" in windows 10 so if you go ahead and right click on your desktop > display settings. you should see 2 monitors attached, display 1 and display 2. click on the icon or select your tv from the drop down list. once you've selected your desired display, under resolution try setting it to your tv's native resolution.
if that doesnt work feel free to post again but good luck
pretty sure the procedure is the same on all versions of windows, you may need to click "Advanced display settings/options" in windows 10 so if you go ahead and right click on your desktop > display settings. you should see 2 monitors attached, display 1 and display 2. click on the icon or select your tv from the drop down list. once you've selected your desired display, under resolution try setting it to your tv's native resolution.
if that doesnt work feel free to post again but good luck
what gpu do you have? is it dedicated or integrated?
in amd settings you can underscan or overscan the size of the tv
if you have crimson, open up amd settings and go to display, then additional settings and navigate to underscan/overscan settings and play with the slider
if you dont have crimson it should be in catalyst control center
crimson is the new driver suite update fyi. in case ya feel.
if you have crimson, open up amd settings and go to display, then additional settings and navigate to underscan/overscan settings and play with the slider
if you dont have crimson it should be in catalyst control center
crimson is the new driver suite update fyi. in case ya feel.
Also, check the display mode of your tv.
You may have a "screen" or "display" or "size" or something along those lines on your remote, cycle through the modes until you get the right one ("Full" on my TV).
Sometimes the default mode is Cinema or 16:10 or even Zoomed.
You may have a "screen" or "display" or "size" or something along those lines on your remote, cycle through the modes until you get the right one ("Full" on my TV).
Sometimes the default mode is Cinema or 16:10 or even Zoomed.
though if you have a 4k display and a gpu that doesnt have support for that you may have a problem
answer to question one... yes. dont run the risk.
answer to question two... are you talking about those mini leaf blowers that are designed to blow dust out of components? the ones that dont suck air, but blow them? or an actual vacuum
i guess you don't need one, it's really just saving on not having to buy compressed air canisters
answer to question two... are you talking about those mini leaf blowers that are designed to blow dust out of components? the ones that dont suck air, but blow them? or an actual vacuum
i guess you don't need one, it's really just saving on not having to buy compressed air canisters
aw damn everyone answered better than i did already
#45126 to #45123
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kober (01/11/2016) [-]
Do you need one? Not necessarily; you can always use compressed air, but that's a more costly solution in the long run.
The potential for short circuiting something due to the static buildup from a vacuum is there. I wouldn't risk it, personally, especially given that most components in a system cost more than a vacuum does.
I love data vacs, personally. My family's had the one pictured for at least 11 or so years now. Interestingly enough, they still sell the exact model.
The potential for short circuiting something due to the static buildup from a vacuum is there. I wouldn't risk it, personally, especially given that most components in a system cost more than a vacuum does.
I love data vacs, personally. My family's had the one pictured for at least 11 or so years now. Interestingly enough, they still sell the exact model.
I've seen that on Amazon and I am curious to get it but I'm not sure the thing is an anti-static vac. The cheapest I can come across is $250.
There is this: www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-MDV-1BA-DataVac-Comput
but it doesn't explicitly say anti-static.
There is this: www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-MDV-1BA-DataVac-Comput
but it doesn't explicitly say anti-static.
so i've got a 7870 and a 270 running in my system
went out and bought a displayport cable for the second monitor i just put in
i dont get ANY output from my 270, and my 7870 is running as my main display adapter
is this a bug or a feature
i assumed that you could plug a display into each card and be done with it but apparently not
went out and bought a displayport cable for the second monitor i just put in
i dont get ANY output from my 270, and my 7870 is running as my main display adapter
is this a bug or a feature
i assumed that you could plug a display into each card and be done with it but apparently not
if you're running crossfire only one card outputs video. The other card is just processing data. I have 2 290x in crossfire and only one of them outputs video
yeah, just read about that on the crossfire faq
how do those people with like dozens of monitors set up get all those outputs then if the second card is just a slave
how do those people with like dozens of monitors set up get all those outputs then if the second card is just a slave
Some cards can support up to 6 displays after that I have no idea
I'm fairly sure most video cards have at least two outputs and it is typically recommended to utilize all outputs available prior to adding more video cards to your system.
In any case, if you're referring to a GTX 270 (as opposed to the R9 270), make sure you also have NVIDIA drivers installed.
In any case, if you're referring to a GTX 270 (as opposed to the R9 270), make sure you also have NVIDIA drivers installed.
i only have hdmi, dvi, and mini displayport output on my radeon 7870, but i have a monitor that only accepts full size plugs for displayport. i have a r9 270, running in crossfire with my first gpu.
the monitor works with vga and all i just dont have vga output on either of my cards
wat do ????
the monitor works with vga and all i just dont have vga output on either of my cards
wat do ????
> $29.99
god i love the canadian dollar
turns out that only the primary gpu outputs in crossfire
mini displayport to displayport from my gpu (mini displayport) to my monitor (full size displayport) works right
cause hdmi to displayport does not for me lmao
god i love the canadian dollar
turns out that only the primary gpu outputs in crossfire
mini displayport to displayport from my gpu (mini displayport) to my monitor (full size displayport) works right
cause hdmi to displayport does not for me lmao
Hi this board probably gets the "I want to build a gaming PC and I don't know anything" thread. I Too want to build a Gaming PC, I just don't know where to start? I earn up to £60-£75 a week with my shitty pot wash job.
Just need to know what pieces I need/ or if it would be cheaper to buy a pc, but I just want it so it can handle most games at normal qaulity settings and about 60 frames at least. If someone can link me to some comp about building PC's I've seen some but never book marked them or just give me some idea here. Thanks xxx
Just need to know what pieces I need/ or if it would be cheaper to buy a pc, but I just want it so it can handle most games at normal qaulity settings and about 60 frames at least. If someone can link me to some comp about building PC's I've seen some but never book marked them or just give me some idea here. Thanks xxx
I got a small loan from my parents back in '07 (when I was only 10-11 years old) and bought a combination of used and new parts with it for pretty cheap and assembled it myself. I paid it off after a pretty long time (around 2011, whenever I started to take computer enthusiasm seriously) and continued to slowly buy parts one at a time - usually one or two things a year, typically covered by whatever I received for Christmas or my Birthday. The only upgrade I've bought since I got a job is my ROG Swift, actually, but even spending (or saving) as little as $200/mo. on upgrades could quickly add up to a beastly system.
Let's assume his income is entirely disposable (which, considering it's too little to really cover anything like rent or a car payment, it likely is). If he committed himself to it and spent half of what he makes on a computer, within a year he'd have spent (or saved enough to afford) roughly £1632 on a computer which is enough to build a very high end system. If he spent a forth of his income, he'd still have plenty to build a gaming system that could achieve 60FPS @ 1080p on most demanding titles.
Let's assume his income is entirely disposable (which, considering it's too little to really cover anything like rent or a car payment, it likely is). If he committed himself to it and spent half of what he makes on a computer, within a year he'd have spent (or saved enough to afford) roughly £1632 on a computer which is enough to build a very high end system. If he spent a forth of his income, he'd still have plenty to build a gaming system that could achieve 60FPS @ 1080p on most demanding titles.
Saving money for 8 years to spend it on your computer alone is quite humongous (I'm not being judgmental by any means here no really ).
Also when I said "twice that amount" I meant £600, altogether, not "£600 per month and saving money for a year".
Although that would also mean he doesn't spend his income in anything else, including food and basic stuff.
Holy shit this whole thread became speculations on the lifestyle of this guy.
larrynonymous we're really waiting for you here, if you need our help.
Also when I said "twice that amount" I meant £600, altogether, not "£600 per month and saving money for a year".
Although that would also mean he doesn't spend his income in anything else, including food and basic stuff.
Holy shit this whole thread became speculations on the lifestyle of this guy.
larrynonymous we're really waiting for you here, if you need our help.
Technically, I didn't save for eight years. I've built, upgraded, and upgraded again in that time. I once had a Q6600, then an FX-8150, and now a 4930K. I once had an 8600, a 460, 660 Ti, and now a 780. I went from a CRT to 3 19" monitors to 3 27" monitors.
This year, I'll likely be upgrading quite a bit again now that I have a stable job. Hopefully that 1080 Ti comes out sometime...
In any case, if he can get a loan, then he can build something epic and pay it back fairly easily. Otherwise, he can save until he can afford something decent and upgradeable and work from there. There is no reason he can't build a system based off of his income.
This year, I'll likely be upgrading quite a bit again now that I have a stable job. Hopefully that 1080 Ti comes out sometime...
In any case, if he can get a loan, then he can build something epic and pay it back fairly easily. Otherwise, he can save until he can afford something decent and upgradeable and work from there. There is no reason he can't build a system based off of his income.
maybe he's a student living with his folks and he's doing some work for pocket cash
just went to microcenter and picked up a pair of sennheiser hd 518's. they were $130 in store and i didnt really do any research beforehand so that was whatever. couple hours later i see they are $68 on amazon. they said they would do a price adjustment but i got home and tried them out and was extremely disappointed. i own a pair of turtle beach x12's right now, and maybe i am just used to them(i dont think i am) but they sound way clearer. i dont even like bass much when it comes to headphones and it was still not as good as my x12's even when messing with some audio settings. can anyone speak for the hd 558's? if not that, what else? my friend suggested the mdr7506
#45093
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wertologist (01/10/2016) [-]
I keep getting this error ranomly when playing Minecraft. My minecraft will freeze completely, this will pop up, then java will crash. I have absolutely no idea how to fix this. This started after I updated to Windows 10 from Windows 8. I updated my drivers, but it still doesn't work.
Can someone please help me fix this fucking mess? It's frustratingly annoying. I crashed about 4 times in 3 minutes. The crashes happen frequently and with no warning.
Can someone please help me fix this fucking mess? It's frustratingly annoying. I crashed about 4 times in 3 minutes. The crashes happen frequently and with no warning.
bought my brother minecraft the other day, he gets this every single time when alt tabbing on win 10.
he's got a laptop so what i did was go to lenovo's website and download their win 10 driver, not intel's latest
seems to work ok after that
he's got a laptop so what i did was go to lenovo's website and download their win 10 driver, not intel's latest
seems to work ok after that
Just ran an Intel updater, but now it is telling me the drivers it's trying to install are older than the ones I have and it's asking if I want to overwrite them. This is supposed to be the latest Intel driver right? So how does my computer have more recent versions?
I'm pretty sure I did already. Mind telling me how to do it? I'm not too tech savvy.