I saw another gif about position of particle in wawes around on fj a few minutes ago. Can't find it now. But the other gif showed that particles moved in a circle and came back to where it started every time. Maybe this guy saw it and wanted to explain that the other gif was incorrect. Would me more fitting in the coment section though
Probably because people find things like this intresting. Facts they have not thought about, but find a little cool when they are shown. Also i doubt that the point of this that the particle moves but the fact that the particles moves in a spiral-circle-somethinglikethat shape
it is very hard to change the density of water. Changing temperature 50 degrees or applying a huge pressure changes the density by very little, say 0,1%.
This is why hydraulics work.
Wow I've always wondered about this. This will save me lots of time to think about other stuff now. Thank you! What about particles in air though - or are there too many factors such as pressure / wind etc to visualize it? scienceexplain / sciencexplain pls halp.
What about particles in air? There are differences between a light-wave propagating through the air vs. pressure waves vs. electromagnetic waves vs etc waves on the particles.
the first one (Longitudinal waves), where there are two particles colored red, so you can see what happens to them. In a closed system, the particles actually remain in the same place. if this were an open system, you would see the exact same thing as in the content, except without the up and down motion i.e., it would go forward, back a little, then forward again, etc.
the particles move to the right because in a addition to being a wave, this is also a current. A normal wave, i.e. one made by dropping a stone in the water, would not move particles on the surface.
All normal surface waves (non-current) can be written as combinations of sinus functions, and they oscillate back and forth.
I was always taught that particles in a wave oscillate back and forth on a constant origin, similar to how this .gif shows it, but I could be wrong considering I've only studied up to calculus based physics section 2, which would be the electro-magnetics classes.
Usually you'd be right, if I'm not mistaken (and it is possible I am) this is the special case where there is some net travel such as a tide coming in or some wind related force.
you mean wave like sub-atomic wave, fluid / liquid waves don't work the same way cuz the particles are moving through a different medium (water) as opposed to air or a vaccuum
Undertow is often misinterpreted as a current pulling straight downwards, but such currents do not exist, at least not constant enough to be inescapable. What most people think of as undertow is actually a rip current, which is where a narrow channel of water is moving quickly out from the shore. As these currents are visibly very hard to see and can be very powerful, most drowning is due to people panicking as they're swept into deeper water. A harbor inlet would have a constant flow of a lot of water, so the rip current could very quickly drag someone out to sea and would be very wide, thus much harder to escape from, though still not impossible.
Pretty much. Sometimes it can drag you out far enough while disorienting you so you don't know which direction the shore is in. There are also times when the rip tide actually prevents you from swimming back to shore by just pulling you back out. A decent amount of people drown simply from exhaustion from trying to get back to the shore. If snagged you are supposed to swim almost parallel to the shore while slowly coming in. It's meant to find an area without a rip tide giving you a chance to get to the shore.
Yeah all this. Plus I wouldn't doubt a rip current being able to temporarily pull someone down since they could be pretty turbulent and may have smaller eddy currents within them, but again, it wouldn't be a consistent downward pull.
Maybe someone can help me out here. If you take a point at the top of the wave, it appears that it is advancing in the wave's direction, in the long run. Therefore, how can someone get ''carried away'' by the waves AWAY from shore?
Because of the undercurrent. When a wave hits the shore, it first travels upwards the beach, but then quickly retreat into the sea again. However the rest of the water in the sea is still trying to get unto the shore.
So you will be forced down to the ocean floor, while being dragged away from shore at the same time.
(I would illustrate, but i have the paint skills of a retarded monkey with broken fingers).
Depends on the on shore/off shore wind and underwater stream conditions bro. The formation of the bottom of the ocean and sometimes even movement of tectonic plates.