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#2 - lrw (10/17/2013) [-]
i thumbed up for two reasons:
1 i like beardiea
2 im getting one for xmas (so ant tips would be welcome thx)
User avatar #14 to #2 - suitandtie (10/17/2013) [-]
You can keep a smaller one in a cage as small as a 20 gallon, but within a year you'll need a 40 gallon to put them in. Also, a 40 gallon is really only enough space for one of them. If you plan on having more then one, either invest in two separate cages, or make sure you manage to get a cage large enough that two fully grown beardies, at about 2 feet long each, can have enough space to avoid each other if necessary. That being said, when it comes to housing, more space is always good. A 40 is the bare minimum.

They need a basking spot of about 105 F, with an ambient temperature of around 80 degrees. Night time temps should never drop below 72 for a baby beardie, and never drop below 68 for an adult.

They're diurnal, so you're going to need to provide some UVB lighting to help them properly synthesize and absorb Calcium and D3.

People are always debating about the substrate, so I'll just give you my opinion. First of all, never use anything small enough that the beardie could accidentally ingest it, because you don't wanna deal with impaction. That said, for my reptiles, I use paper towels. It doesn't look as good, but there's no way they'll ingest it, and it makes clean up ridiculously easy. But that's just my own opinion.

House level humidity should be fine for a beardie, no need to aid in that. You may wanna spray them with water while they're shedding though, just to help them out. Also, have a water dish present. Most desert species prefer to drink moving water, but if they get really thirsty, they'll drink still water from a dish.

They're omnivores, so provide everything. Crickets, mealworms, and roaches are your best bets. The packaged diets, like ZooMed or RepCal's canned Bearded Dragon food are good additions. Also, beardies will learn to eat canned insects if live are too much of a hassle for you. Also include greens(Kale, Mustard Greens, Collard Greens). Occasional fruit(apples, bananas, etc.) are okay. Occasionally. Make sure to dust all insects
User avatar #15 to #14 - suitandtie (10/17/2013) [-]
(cont'd)

With a Calcium/Vitamin D3 supplement, and specifically one without phosphorus. Dust insects every meal for a baby, and every other meal for an adult. All you do is put the powder in a zip-loc bag, drop the insects you're looking to feed in there, and shake the bag. Then take them out for feeding. Make sure the insects aren't too large, either, otherwise the beardie may not eat them or may choke on them. As a general rule, the insects shouldn't be longer than the distance between the beardies eyes. Babies will eat 10 small crickets multiple times a day. Adults are usually happy with 4 large crickets, or a couple hissing or dubia roaches, or a big bowl of giant worms(as the dragon gets bigger, superworms may be worth looking into).

www.amazon.com/Rep-Cal-Reptile-Calcium-Powder-D3/d
www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-ReptiTherm%C2%AE-Under-Heat
www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-MTPRTC-Digital-Thermostat
(The heating pad and thermometer work together to ensure the heating pad doesn't get too hot). Also, now that I think to mention it, don't get any kind of hot rocks. The beardie won't recognize that it's getting too hot and may burn itself.

I don't know where you live, so I can't recommend an insect breeder. But if you are in the U.S., You need to login to view this link is absolutely fantastic.

If you(or anyone else reading these) has any more questions about bearded dragons or any other reptiles, feel free to contact me.
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